Friday, October 24, 2008

October 24th, 2008

We are having gardener woes. Our original gardener (liked by Barbara, despised by Tommy) decided to stop gardening and take up construction (more money). Found another gardener straight away, agreed on terms and duties, and waited for him to show up on the appointed day....nada. Found a second gardener, agreed on terms and duties, and waited for him to show up on the appointed day...nada. Now I'm getting paranoid; what's going on? A cousin of friends' gardener said he had an extra day, and would send in a crew of four to do a big tidy-up; agreed on terms and duties...well, you know what happened...nada. He did show up a week later, apologizing that he was too busy and would have his friend Sebastian come the next day; I emphasized I only wanted one guy for one day a week. Four guys showed up the next day.....My Spanish is NOT that bad! I am going to hire an interpreter to find out why this is happening, or, more accurately, not happening! Groan...

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

October 14, 2008

I think that you know that I have been involved with a local Panamanian group which is trying to do something about the roadside trash and to start a recycling program. We had our first "fair" on Saturday, which included lots of exhibits, introduction of the first "eco brigade" (kids who are going to keep streets around the school clean), and a bake sale to raise money. I had contacted "Playacommunity" (an English-speaking website, centered mainly on the coast, about 40 minutes from here) for publicity. They wrote an article before the event, and then wrote an article after the event, which included photos. Check it out here: http://www.playacommunity.com/the-news/community-events/el-valle-first-ecological-fair/
You will notice the "NO BASURA" sign, which I designed and starting creating. When my mother came to visit, she helped me and then later I had the elementary school kids help. The sign is made mainly out of little juice boxes, which we cut into strips, folded and then threaded onto wire in the shape of the letters.
Anyway, the ecofair was a grand event for this little town. In two of the photos you can see the kids of the first eco brigade, getting ready to take their pledge. Oh, they were so cute!

And today Tommy and I went to Panama City to pick up my new car....a little baby red car. It is very similar to my Nissan Micra in Portugal. I drove it home and I love it!

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

September 13th, 2008

Saturday was our anniversary (26 married and 30 together)..yikes! As we were passing Mario's, we saw him talking to the fish truck guys. We knew that the fish truck had lobster, so we stopped and asked Mario to buy two and fix them for us for dinner. He as delighted, so we went there with our bottle of champagne, and he put flowers on our table and served us a sort of lobster thermidor. We were sitting outside, and the temperature was perfect with no wind. We could hear the live music at the beer hall "Imperial" in the distance so it wasn't too intrusive. Off in the distance we could also hear fireworks (what in the world was happening in El Valle with all this activity?)

The last time we had lobster was in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua on our trip from California to Panama. Mario's lobster was every bit as good! What a special evening!

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Cement Workshop, September 2008

Franco is an artist who works in many media. He is currently using cement to make sculptures, which are magnificent and too expensive (rightly so)for my pocketbook. He was very receptive to teaching his techniques, so I organized a two-day workshop. In order to get us started quickly, Franco had cut and bent the initial armatures so that we all started off with the same shape. And then we went to work, each of the six of us creating something original and completely different from all the others. We mixed and applied cement for hours, with Franco helping each of us as needed. We were so thrilled with our creations; mine is a bust of (perhaps) a lady but it could be an American Indian. And it is heavier than shit!
Because of the success of the first workshop, others wanted to learn so I organized a second workshop. I just went to look at their creations: all of theirs are different from each other and from ours! This medium is incredible!
I need to finish my big stained glass commission (hopefully by the end of September) and then I want to try a larger, more delicate piece. Cross your fingers!

Organic Coffee, El Valle

We have a special treat here in El Valle: a small tostaderia (coffee roaster) which specializes in organic coffee. The tostaderia is owned and run by Francoise and Jose, a Canadian/Panamanian couple. They make excursions throughout the country to source their coffee beans. Each batch of beans has an interesting journey; for example, the last bag I bought made this trek: Jose called someone in a small village in the Ngobe Bugle comarca (way west and north from here...towards Costa Rica), where they had previously visited and approved the coffee. The phone answerer took a message and a couple of days later, the "chefe" called Jose, who ordered four five-hundred pound sacks of coffee. Once the coffee beans had been picked and bagged, the sacks were loaded onto donkeys who make the trek through the jungle until reaching a road where there was a 4-wheel drive jeep. The sacks were taken, by the jeep, down to the Pan American Highway, where they were transferred to one of the buses which run up and down the highway. The bus got the coffee beans as far as the turn up to El Valle (28 km down the mountain), where Jose was waiting with his car to transport the beans up the mountain to El Valle.
It is not often you get to hear about your food origins! And it is yummy coffee, too!

Travis and Morgan, August 2008

Most of you know that Travis (11) and Morgan (8) are my beloved grandchildren. I was fortunate to have five days with them when we were in the States in August. These kids have so much, and there is no way that I can compete with that so I prefer to spend time with them, creating memories and events with which they can identify me. And we usually have a lot of fun, too.

The day I arrived, we walked downtown and had sushi for lunch. On the way back, we stopped into a make-your-own-art and the two of them created art pieces. Then we stopped for decaf mocha frappachinos for the kids; Travis was amazed that there are no Starbucks in Panama. This kid needs to get out of California!

Later that week, Travis decided to have a lemonade stand. San Carlos has a farmers market every Thursday in August; he reckoned that lots of people going to the market would have to walk by the house. We ran around, collecting supplies and decorations; Travis and Morgan made signs which were pasted on the street corners and the big sign on the front of the shop window. We opened promptly at 4, and had customers right away. People in cars stopped when they saw the big sign, parked and came over to buy the lemonade. The kids worked straight through til 8, when the market ended. They made over $25!, all at 50 cents a glass! And no fighting at all...another wonder!

On Friday, we went up to the Tahoe house, primarily because Chris and Kerry wanted to continue re-roofing the house. The kids and I were sent to the creek with a picnic lunch, but before we got to eating, Travis decided we needed to building a raft. So, with Travis as engineer and project director, we build the raft, and re-built the raft, and re-built the raft...five times worth. We used materials we found in the creek: old planks, a log, and weeds which we tied together to make string. Five re-builds and five hours later, we had a raft which floated with a kid on it! What a riot! We had so much fun, we didn't realize that it had gotten so late until Kerry came to fetch us. It was great!

Birthday Parties

Before I get to my birthday party, let me tell you about a couple of others held here in El Valle. Rene, our friend from Portugal, decided to hostess a birthday party for the August babies: Adele (6th), Marilyn and me (the 7th), and Christine (the 12th). Rene is the definition of "the hostess with the mostest". There were 14 of us for a sit-down dinner, served by staff, and prior to that, a cocktail party with a bar tender. Marilyn brought tiaras and boas for all the birthday girls, and we found ourselves posing for lots of photos. Marilyn and JD also came dressed in fancy clothes: he in a tux and spats, and she in a party dress her mom had made for her 40 years ago...imagine! I couldn't get one arm in a dress from 40 years ago!

A week earlier, we had a surprise birthday party for Rene, here at our house. Tommy and I had originally thought we would have a small, intimate dinner for Rene, Tom and another couple. But Rene's cookbook group wanted to honor her as well so we changed course, the menu and decided to make a surprise out of the big group. The cookbook group is five gals who are writing a cookbook, the proceeds of which will go to charity. The group is currently in its "recipe testing" phase so each member brought two dishes (whose recipes they were testing) to the surprise party. What an easy way to have a party! Anyway, Rene was surprised, the dinner was delicious, we all had a lot of fun, and she got lots of presents. Our present to her was a New Zealand leg of lamb, which sounds like a very weird present but, in fact, she and I have been moaning about the non-availability of the New Zealand lamb and I had just found them at Riba Smith (new item).

On to my birthday party in the States: several months ago Cynthia had declared that my 60th birthday needed to be celebrated. She's probably sorry she brought it up because I realized what I wanted most was to have a "Big Chill Weekend" with my US pals and the best place for that was her house in Sierra Madre, California. She graciously agreed to be the hostess. Linda Shipman did the organizing, and almost all my pals were there. There were even a couple of surprises: Linda and Wilson, and Nancy, each of whom had said that they couldn't attend. And I really was surprised! Gosh, but it was a fabulous time, and exactly what I wanted with all of us cooking and shopping together, meeting in the kitchen to get the day started, taking walks, talking, going off to special lunch places, visiting bead stores, and just generally hanging out. For the party, Cynthia had hired a band and all the gals danced with Skip; what a good sport he is! It was a perfect time,and I'll enjoy those memories forever!

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

The "No Basura" Project

One of the ugly things about Panama (actually, all of Central America) is the trash. Trash is thrown out of car and bus windows, dropped wherever it is no longer needed, and just pushed aside when the grass is being mowed. Newcomers to El Valle are appalled when first arriving. El Valle is so beautiful but litter is everywhere.

A number of were talking this situation, and hit upon recycling. Our thesis was that the only way to motivate the locals to not throw trash was to pay them for it; they are so poor that we felt this would work. As Gerlinda was calling around to find out information about various recycling operations (few, few and far between), Jackie found a recycling company down on the coast. This is a Colombian company, which containerizes the trash and ships it to Colombia. Can you imagine!

Completely independent of our project, Carlitos organized a town clean up day. It was enormously successful, collecting 300+ huge bags of trash plus piles and piles of tires. We met with Carlitos and described what we wanted to accomplish. We agreed to combine forces, with his co-op taking the public face and lead (much, much better than a couple of gringas trying to ram something down the locals' throats). He is putting his team and their "brigades" in place, and we expect them to start up in August.

In conjunction with my current interest in trash, I decided to make a sign spelling out "No Basura" (no trash) out of trash. One day I left the house with my big green garbage bag to collect trash for the sign; Tommy was standing on the front porch, yelling, "No wife of mine is going to collect public trash."

Well, this wife did, and after a couple of false starts, figured out how to cut and fold the colorful juice cartons and then thread the folded bits onto wire to make the letters. When my mother visited, she was pressed into service to help out. She and I completed about half the letters, and this sure was getting to be a bit tedious. Then one Thursday, Maritza called to say that she needed an alternate project for the kids for the art project and would I consider bringing the stuff to make the sign. Wow! Would I ever! The volunteers and two teachers led the cutting effort, while the kids folded and quality controlled their work. A couple of the boys pounded the holes in the folded papers (everyone wanted that job!), and two of us threaded the papers onto the wires, which I had pre-bent into the letters. By the end of the class, all but one letter was finished, which I did the next day.

"Our" welder made a black metal rectangle for me, and Tommy drilled lots of holes in it. We tied the letters onto the rectangle, and now the sign is almost done! I just have to paint the names of those who contributed to this project. And then the sign will be hung in some public place, in conjunction with the recycling project. Pretty neat, isn't it?

Maritza's Art Project

In previous posts, I have mentioned my friend Maritza, who is Panamanian but spent most of her life in the US. She is an artist, has energy for twelve, and is enormously creative. She was my Spanish teacher for about four months, and I often referred to her as the "best teacher I have ever had." She gave up teaching to start an art project in one of the local elementary schools.

None of the schools in El Valle teach art. Maritza approached the Minister of Education and the officials in this one particular school, and described her program: a elective weekly project to teach the kids about the great masters, some drawing and painting fundamentals, with presentations by visiting artists. The program was approved, parents gave their approval, and we signed up 103 kids! I say "we" because Maritza enlisted her friends as volunteers to help out.

I was the first guest artist, and described the process of making a stained glass item, as well as showing some of my pieces. The yellow VW is always a crowd pleaser. I also had the kids apply copper foil to a glass bobble, and they got to keep the bobble. Christine, who makes paper from local plants, was a big hit, as was Harry who is a designer (mostly furniture). He brought three or four of his chairs and sofas, which had been scaled to child size. Franco described the process of making cement sculptures, and Shirley and Jackie gave painting lessons. In our last session, George Scribner, a Disney animator, enthralled the kids. He first painted Dumbo and then taught the kids how to draw Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and figures with movements. He was terrific and had the kids completely engaged.

Panama was host to an exhibition of Rembrandt etchings. The kids studied Rembrandt for several weeks. The ones who had the best Rembrandt portfolio (essay, drawings, creative coloring) were selected to go to the exhibition. (Keep in mind that many of these kids had never seen the ocean, let alone been to Panama City and a museum.) Although the school had a bus which would transport the kids, there was no budget for the diesel, the driver, the lunches, etc. etc. So, we quickly did some fund raising in El Valle, and had a great response. We left El Valle at 6:30 am on a Saturday morning (ugh), and were first in line for a tour through the museum. The museum tour guides said that these kids were the best ever in the museum. For the most part, they were speechless. After the museum, they went to the mall for lunch and some playing on the bumper cars. The bus got back to El Valle about 5; it was a spectacular day.

One project, prompted by a visiting mural artist from the States, was a mural for the "auditorium" at the school. Kids in the art project designed the mural, which was executed by several high school kids under the direction of Mark Nelson, the visiting mural artist.

The project will continue through the end of October. I am so grateful to be involved with this project. The kids are so good, and just lapping up all this stuff. They get a kick out of me and my laugh, and giggle shyly when they say "Thank you" to me in Engish. And I love it, when I am riding my bike around town, one of them sees me and waves excitedly.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Beisbol, Panama Style

As many of you know, Barbara was called "Barbara Baseball" when we lived in the States. When we lived in Portugal, we did find some amateur baseball but it was too amateur and too far away (the team did ask Tommy to coach them!). Anyway, so one of the joys of moving to Panama was to reconnect with baseball (beisbol to you Spanish speakers).

Early in our life here in Panama, I started on a mission to find out about baseball in Panama, for which there is a website but no future information posted. While doing some research on the web, I found an article written by a Panamanian about a game in Rod Carew stadium. I wrote to him and he replied, suggesting that we catch a game in the "juvenil (youth) league"; he said that they were more interesting than the "old guys" and that their season was starting in January. Sure enough, the season did start in January and the games were played in stadiums all over the country. With all the best intentions, we never got to a game during the regular season, mainly because the games started at 7pm and were at least an hour plus away.

When Cynthia came to visit in February, we made it our goal to get to a game. The schedule in the newspaper showed Saturday's game in Chame (about an hour eastwards), starting at 7 pm. Okay, we could do that. The next day, the schedule showed Saturday's game in Chame at 5 pm. Hm. Saturday rolled around, and the schedule still showed a 5 pm starting time, so off we went, looking for the stadium, which was an adventure because there are no signs on the highway to point you in the direction of the stadium. We found our way there by asking directions at every intersection.

This cute little stadium (held a couple of thousand fans) was tucked away in the middle of a residential area; lights had recently been installed. We arrived about 15 minutes before starting time, paid our $4 to enter, and there were only a few seats left! Cynthia found out that, for an additional $1, we could rent white plastic chairs, which we could put anywhere there was room. So, we plunked ourselves down, slightly to third base side of home base, about 10 feet behind the screen. Great seats, we thought. Then the game started, exactly on time, and everyone stood up, starting yelling and screaming and we could see nothing. Behind us (two feet away), the base drum started banging, joined by various other musical instruments in the stands. Runners were going for, and returning with, beers for everyone around us; people got louder and louder. Actually, the noise was making Tommy physically ill, so he took some time outs down along third base line. Was it a baseball game or just a fun, loud night out?

Who was winning? What was happening? What inning was it? Beats the heck out of us...there was no scoreboard. We found out the next day via the newspaper that Chiriqui won that game; they went on to win the title a couple of games later. So, that was our beisbol experience this year. We had hoped to get to a "big league" game in Panama City at Rod Carew stadium but will save that for next year.

Just a few more beisbol notes:

--early on in the youth baseball tournament, the game was stopped because "one of the umpires turned out to be drunk"

--the national team had hoped to play in the tournament in Taiwan (I think this was in November). Panama was disqualified because its league manager had not paid the required $6000 for insurance.

Beisbol, Panama style, may not be all that we hoped it would be....

Legal! Finally!

It took almost nine months for our Jubliado Visas (geek visas) to be approved. First of all, there was much confusion about our having US passports and Portuguese documents. Our lawyer wasn't following up closely, so our applications sat for several months before he finally woke up. It only took a day to resolve the confusion but then our applications were caught in the flood of other applications, as well as a change in directorship at Immigration.

Finally, on May 6th, we saw on the Immigration website, that our applications had been approved. We notified our lawyer (and no, we are not recommending him to others). We were told that the earliest we could pick up the visas was on 16 May.

My mother arrived late on 14 May, and I drove her up to El Valle on 15 May. Early on 16 May, I drove back to Panama City, collected Tommy and we walked over to the lawyer's office. His minion drove us to the Immigration office, where another minion had "taken a number" for us at 7 am in the morning. Our number was finally called at 11ish, and the minion moved the paperwork from one window to another. Don't ask: haven't a clue why. The Immigration office is in an old building, with seating for about 100 and standing for about 500. Even then, in order to move, you had to shove people out of the way. It was chaotic, hot and seemed completely disorganized. No wonder the government has approved a new building and offices for this department.

We were finally told to get in the line for photographs; we waited in that line for about an hour, all the time watching others being taken out of line and ushered into the photo place. Obviously, they were bribing the officials and I would have been glad to, as well, had I known this was a possibility. So, I did the next best thing: explained that mi esposo had cancer and that he had an appointment at the hospital for treatment. We were photographed and had our approved, stamped and official visas within the half hour.

Wish I had thought of that earlier!

Drivers' Licenses

So, after the nonsense in traffic stop, I became paranoid about getting our Panamanian drivers' licenses. Our first stop was the American Embassy, to have our California licenses validated and notarized.

Then, onto the Foreign Ministry, so that they could do whatever they do. It is hard to figure out, but they issue a deposit slip which one takes to a Banco National and pays $4, and gets some pink stamps. These stamps are applied to some paper issued by the Foreign Ministry.

You take all this stamped and notarized and officialized paper to the driver's license place, where you are photographed, tested (eyes and hearing), and then issued a license on the spot. The driver's license place is incredibly efficient and easy to deal with.

The Embassy and the Foreign Ministry took us one day (because of the wait times at the Foreign Ministry). We did the licenses another day. And we were thrilled...we were finally legal!

June 6th, Anton and Penonome

So June 6th was the appointed court date, which was in Anton. Maritza offered to go with me (thank goodness)! We arrived a little before 11 (the designated time), and a half hour or so later, were sent into the court administrator's office, along with the bicyclist. We each explained what had happened (Maritza translating for me). I also said that I knew the bicyclist could not pay any money, that I would pay for the damage, but that I wanted the record clear that I was not at fault.

The administrator, seeing an easy way out, announced that we could all shake hands and agree to my terms. Maritza was having none of it! She convinced the administrator that the agreement had to be in writing so that my insurance would not be affected. Because putting the agreement in writing would create more work for the administrator, it took Maritza some time and forcefulness to convince him that it was necessary. But he finally agreed, and we were told to return at 1 pm for the document. The bicyclist was told he could go home; Maritza and I gave him money for his bus fare home.

So, we went to eat lunch and shop (what else?). Of course, when we returned to the court at 1, the document wasn't ready. However, at about 3 we left the court, with the all-important document, feeling very good about our mission.

And then disaster struck: Maritza twisted her ankle as we were getting into the car. It was so bad and so painful, that she could not drive. I took the wheel, stopping first to get a bag of ice for her ankle and then onto Penonome to the hospital.

This was a third world hospital, nothing like the beautiful hospitals we had come to know and love in Panama City. It was raining, and there were puddles on the floor where the roof had holes. The floors were not clean, and everything was very, very old and used.

After x-rays and waiting another two hours, the orthopedic doctor arrived and pronounced a torn ligament. There was nothing he could do for it but prescribed a "boot", to be purchased in Panama City. He also prescribed pain killers, which we stopped and got on our way back home.

By this time, it was dark and raining. But the pain killers were working, and Maritza sat in the passenger seat with her hurt ankle elevated on the dashboard console. I was merrily driving along and then we were stopped at roadblock and waved over. License, registration and documents please.

I mistakenly admitted that I had been in the country for a year. Oh, and where was my Panamanian driver's license? Did I not know that I was driving illegally and that he would now confiscate the car and charge me a huge fine? Maritza took over, explaining the ankle problem, starting to cry, and asking whether or not we could contribute to the police fund. $8 later we were on our with, no fine and no more talk about confiscating the car.

What a day! We did laugh most of the way home....am I meant to be driving in Panama, one wonders...

Me, the car and the bicycle

My mom visited for two weeks in mid-May. Since Tommy was in Panama City (and I don't drive the big black van), my mom rented a car so that she wouldn't have to walk and/or bicycle everywhere (as I do). I was the driver of the car, and found that I did enjoy driving again (this was my first Panama driving experience).

However, on the way to show my mom the Piedra Pintada, a local petroglyph, we had an accident: a bicyclist, coming towards us in our lane, smashed into the car. He wasn't hurt but he broke the windshield, smash a headlight, and scratched the car in numerous places.

Ah terrific. Someone called the El Valle police, who arrived in about 20 minutes. They confirmed that the car could not be moved, and that we had to wait for the transit police from Chame (about 50 minutes away). The El Valle police were really great, and took mom back to our house so that she could eat (she is diabetic) and wait this out in comfort.

The bicyclist was a humble man who lived a further hour away, up in the mountains. He had been on his way to pick up his daughter from school, and wasn't paying attention to things. After the accident, he did leave to go pick up his daughter. He returned with her, and she and I colored while waiting for the transit police.

FOUR HOURS later, the transit police arrived. It took them about 12 minutes to make their report, and to issue us a court date.

What a stinking way to spend a Thursday afternoon!

Tommy's Radiation Treatments

In Panama, radiation treatments are only available at one private hospital, Centro Medico Patilla, which is a different hospital than our beloved Punta Pacifica. Anyway, Patilla demanded that we pay for the radiation treatments, and then request reimbursement from our insurance company, BUPA. This despite BUPA's pre-authorization of the treatments, and assurances that they would pay. We refused to accept this, yelling along the way, "Is this any way to treat sick people?" We told everyone, including Tommy's doctors at the Punta Pacifica (the doctors in Panama practice at all the hospitals so they are somewhat influential).

After more than two months of holding firm, Patilla finally agreed to bill BUPA directly, and the radiation treatments started in early May. Because the treatments were given every day, Monday through Friday, Tommy had to live in Panama City during the week. He stayed at the Sevilla Suites, in the El Cangrejo district, and walked back and forth to the hospital. He took the bus into Panama City on Monday mornings and returned Friday, early evening.

The treatments continued for five weeks, and pretty much busted him up: fatigue, a terrible rash on his back, thin, and grouchier than you can imagine. And that's saying something, isn't it?

Anyway, the treatment seems to have worked. The doctors are finding no evidence of cancer! In late August, Tommy will undergo all the tests again to make sure that he has healed properly. Thank you BUPA is all we can say!

Is it really July 28, 2008?

Gosh, but we have been away a long time! Inertia, lots of house guests, Tommy's radiation treatments, lots of excuses....

To finish the license plate story: the week of March 13th, Maritza and I went back to Panama City, arriving at the licensing office at 7:00 am, just as it opened. We were greeted with smiles and nods of acknowledgment. On our way into Panama City, we had stopped in Coronado and bought boxes of chocolates, which we started dispensing to each clerk who moved us successfully along the road to the license plates.

The revised import papers had arrived, as had the revised police inspection certificate, so we were given papers to take up to another office, where a new title was issued. Then back down to the licensing area, where we were given the coveted Panamanian license plates! By 9:00 am, we were done! Almost an anti-climax after the wildness of the previous week.

So, what did we do with the rest of our day? First we went for Chinese breakfast (dim sum). What a treat! And then we started shopping: Do-It Center, Riba Smith, Cochez, etc. etc. I mean, why waste a trip to Panama City?

Friday, March 7, 2008

Ah me, the joys of the bureaucracy...March 6th, 2008

Maritza and I went to Panama City yesterday, leaving at 5:30 am and returning at 9:30 pm. We went to get the license plates for the van; we failed miserably.

The import agent had not put enough information on the import papers, and the vehicle registry found it impossible to register the van without pertinent information.

This is how stupid it is: she needed to input the number of passengers. I said two, and a bit later, produced a photo to show that it was indeed a 2 passenger vehicle. Wasn't good enough; the information has to be on the import papers. There were a couple of other similar problems: for example, in the block labeled "model" the agent had put "S/N" (i.e., sin nombre...no name). The vehicle registry people said this block was improperly filled in, and should have said "S/M"...sin modelo.

Even though Maritza worked her way through the supervisor ladder, we couldn't overcome the bureaucracy and rules (which are apparently rigidly enforced to try to overcome corruption). So, we trudged the papers back to the import agent and we'll see how long it takes her to correct the information; although promised for today, I'm not believing a minute of it.

Welcome to my third world!

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Shopping, El Valle style, February 24th, 2008

Earlier this week, a friend picked me up and told me that we were going to go to buy tomatoes (she knows that I like to dry them and therefore need a lot...a kilo produces only a small zip lock bagful). We drove out of El Valle, up a mountain road (but a good road!), and saw tomatoes growing up the sides of the mountains. We stopped at a local farm, and the farmer took us up to the tomato-growing area. We had to walk on narrow little paths, which went up and down, around, and over streams; it was perhaps a 15 minute hike to reach the tomato plants. Oh, and were they healthy and lush! I was grateful to be living in macho land, because after the tomatoes were picked (50 kilos or so), the MEN carried the buckets down to our car and all I had to do was concentrate on not falling. I remember when we were driving through Guatemala, seeing corn planted up the mountainsides and realizing that, in North America, corn is only planted in flat areas because of the mechanized state of agriculture. And I guess the same could be said of tomatoes; I was so impressed to see that all the mountainsides were green with tomatoes.

We also have a local organic farmer here in El Valle. His lettuces are beautiful, as are the few other vegetables he has. We have all started buying our special seeds for him, so that we can expand his produce line. Yesterday I gave him spinach seeds because I have the hardest time finding spinach here. Funny, the things one misses.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Carnaval, February 1-4, 2008

Carnaval in Panama! What a riot! Carnaval is sacred here, and celebrated all over although a handful of towns are famous for the quality of celebrations.

In those towns, there are queens of Calle Arriba and Calle Bajo, and the courts of the two queens are great rivals. Apparently, each court makes up songs (derogatory) about the other court. The costumes are themed and not the skimpy Rio-type costumes.

Crowds gather in the streets to dance and enjoy. And the big event is when the water is turned on and people get wet. Days before carnaval, towns brag that they have plenty of water this year.

Up here in El Valle, there were no parades although we were told that last year there were parades. There was plenty of water throwing and water balloons. I was doused several times while riding my bike by two boys in the back of a truck. They had a barrel of water with a hose and were having a great time. I didn't mind getting wet; all in good fun!

Jazz Festival, January 21-26, 2008

The Panama Jazz Festival is a week-long event, with the first several days being devoted to workshops and teaching. The public music events were on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. We went to them all!

Thursday and Friday were in the convention center. We had great seats and the acoustics were good. However, Thursday was a real disappointment with mediocre music (Tia Fuller and Catherine Russell, both from the US). Neither bothered to speak one word of Spanish, and their music couldn't hold the audience. A big disappointment.

But Friday made up for it! We started with the Dave Samuels Caribbean Jazz Project; they had lots of energy. Then along came the Stanley Jordan Trio. Stanley Jordan, an American jazz guitarist, spoke entirely in Spanish but mostly played heavenly music and mostly without the other guys. And then he sat down at the piano and played a duet with himself: one hand playing the guitar and one hand playing the piano. Two sounds coming through one body was magical. Tommy was hoping for a one-man trio; why couldn't he play the sax as well?

Saturday was a free concert in the cathedral plaza in Casco Viejo (old town). The concert was two hours late starting but we enjoyed watching the audience assemble (everyone else seemed to realize that the concert would start late). We did stay for two hours of music but were tired and ready to call it a weekend, so we left mid-afternoon. We understand that the event went on til 11 at night, ending again with Stanley Jordan.

Next year we'd like to get a hotel in the Casco Viejo area for Saturday night. Casco Viejo is an area in transition; it is mostly terribly run down and very down market. In the rebuilt areas, it is beautiful and reminds us a lot of New Orleans. Anyway, to get to the cathedral grounds, you have to walk quite a few blocks through not nice areas (the taxis aren't allowed through). There are police everywhere so probably nothing bad will happen, but next year we'd like to stay til the end and only have a couple of blocks to walk.

Anyway, the jazz festival is really great and well worth going to. And yes Wilson, we did buy the t-shirt.

Health Update, February 13, 2008

We just learned that there was a rumor going around the Algarve, saying that Tommy had died. NO WAY! He is alive and well, and was just told by the doctors that the chemo seems to have cleared all the cancer in his esophagus and bones. He'll start radiation therapy soon: scheduled for five weeks, five days a week.

Since this radiation will be in Panama City, we are looking into a short-term apartment rental or an aparthotel. It might be fun to spend a bit more time in Panama City.

Tommy's body is starting to recover from the brutal chemo sessions. He has regained his energy, and some weight, and his hair is coming back -- black, not red! And he has eyebrows again, so he doesn't look sick. So, sorry we didn't post this good news earlier.

Take care. Kill those rumors!

Monday, January 7, 2008

Panama's Push Buttons, January 2008

We have mentioned these love parlors before, but this particular article explains Panama's Push Buttons so well, that we just pasted it here in its entirety. The article was prompted by the murder of a prominent Panamanian lawyer.


"In Panama there are places, basically motels, that are used by people for short term sexual encounters. They are designed so that the customers and staff have no eye-to-eye contact. Each of the rooms has a single parking space in front. If the door is open then that room is currently unoccupied and is available. You pull your car in, roll down the window, and "push the button" to close the garage door behind you - hence the name "push button."

"Many of these places were built thirty or more years ago and were position on the edge of Panama City. Now, the city has grown and overtaken these locations and they are, in effect, right in the middle of the city in some cases. Lazy Susan: Many of these places have different kinds of setups and schemes to minimize contact between the customers and the staff. For example, you can pick up the phone and order anything you might want, from beer and alcohol, condoms, food, whatever. They all have a kind of "menu" of things they offer for sale, usually at greatly inflated prices, but it's available. You use the internal intercom system to call the front desk and place your order, and when it comes they give you your items in a kind of "lazy susan" thing built into the door. It spins around and there's your beer (cool.) Then you pay the bill and the people who work there never actually lay eyes on you. Confidentiality is important when you're banging the secretary or something.

They All Have A Theme: Like the "turbulent waters" which features a jacuzzi in every room. There's one which has a kind of "sex furniture" thing (complete with a sign describing all of the various positions you can get yourself into using it.) The pricing depends on how nice the place is. The cheapest rooms start at like $5.00 for an hour, and the top-end models are like $15 or $20 bucks. Most include at the very least a television with about five or six channels of closed circuit porn being broadcast to the rooms. Usually there are several channels of different flavors and styles. I skip past the ones featuring farm animals...

The "Push Buttons" of Panama are Famous: You hear guys talking among themselves all the time, bragging about how they picked up some girl they know and "I took her to the push..." There are also little places in town known as "pensiones" which are basically the same thing but for people who are on foot. They are little motel rooms where you pay by the hour, but they don't have the elaborate "drive in" and "push button" door closing feature. These are just cheaper versions of the same thing, and tend to be where street hookers take their johns to do the deed.

Killed in the Push: The lawyer in the story was killed by two Colombian women who stabbed him to death and ran, leaving him to die in the push button. Another feature of the push buttons is that they are designed so that you can't just leave at will. What you usually have to do is let them know through the intercom system that you are done and leaving. After you pay your bill for whatever you might have consumed, then you go get in your car and wait. The staff from the push come and inspect the room to make sure you didn't steal any towels or anything, and then they activate the garage door, letting you know that you are free to go. In the case of the two Colombian women who killed the lawyer, they went screaming at the staff of the push and made them open the door to let them leave, and people saw them running away covered in blood. They got away, and that's when the body was discovered. What they should have done is just called the police, and opened the door once they got there.

Copyright 2008 by Don Winner for http://www.panama-guide.com/ Go ahead and use whatever you like as long as you credit the source.

Happy New Year! January 7th, 2008

How did I forget to tell you that Tommy's latest endoscopy showed no cancer in the tumor area in the esophagus! We were so busy celebrating that we forgot to post this good news!

We tried to get a bone scan to check the cancer in the bones; no luck! Apparently all hospitals in Central America are lacking the fluid/??? needed to conduct the test. Tommy's oncologist said that this stuff is due in next week and that his office would get us an appointment.

Pretty crazy stuff, isn't it?

Meanwhile, Tommy's hair is regrowing and I have detected the beginnings of eyebrows! So cool! His appetite is better and he has more energy, and, under threat of penalties from Cynthia, he is actually walking a little bit each day.

Will let you know the results of the bone scan. I'm guessing next week, but then again....