Tuesday, July 29, 2008

The "No Basura" Project

One of the ugly things about Panama (actually, all of Central America) is the trash. Trash is thrown out of car and bus windows, dropped wherever it is no longer needed, and just pushed aside when the grass is being mowed. Newcomers to El Valle are appalled when first arriving. El Valle is so beautiful but litter is everywhere.

A number of were talking this situation, and hit upon recycling. Our thesis was that the only way to motivate the locals to not throw trash was to pay them for it; they are so poor that we felt this would work. As Gerlinda was calling around to find out information about various recycling operations (few, few and far between), Jackie found a recycling company down on the coast. This is a Colombian company, which containerizes the trash and ships it to Colombia. Can you imagine!

Completely independent of our project, Carlitos organized a town clean up day. It was enormously successful, collecting 300+ huge bags of trash plus piles and piles of tires. We met with Carlitos and described what we wanted to accomplish. We agreed to combine forces, with his co-op taking the public face and lead (much, much better than a couple of gringas trying to ram something down the locals' throats). He is putting his team and their "brigades" in place, and we expect them to start up in August.

In conjunction with my current interest in trash, I decided to make a sign spelling out "No Basura" (no trash) out of trash. One day I left the house with my big green garbage bag to collect trash for the sign; Tommy was standing on the front porch, yelling, "No wife of mine is going to collect public trash."

Well, this wife did, and after a couple of false starts, figured out how to cut and fold the colorful juice cartons and then thread the folded bits onto wire to make the letters. When my mother visited, she was pressed into service to help out. She and I completed about half the letters, and this sure was getting to be a bit tedious. Then one Thursday, Maritza called to say that she needed an alternate project for the kids for the art project and would I consider bringing the stuff to make the sign. Wow! Would I ever! The volunteers and two teachers led the cutting effort, while the kids folded and quality controlled their work. A couple of the boys pounded the holes in the folded papers (everyone wanted that job!), and two of us threaded the papers onto the wires, which I had pre-bent into the letters. By the end of the class, all but one letter was finished, which I did the next day.

"Our" welder made a black metal rectangle for me, and Tommy drilled lots of holes in it. We tied the letters onto the rectangle, and now the sign is almost done! I just have to paint the names of those who contributed to this project. And then the sign will be hung in some public place, in conjunction with the recycling project. Pretty neat, isn't it?

Maritza's Art Project

In previous posts, I have mentioned my friend Maritza, who is Panamanian but spent most of her life in the US. She is an artist, has energy for twelve, and is enormously creative. She was my Spanish teacher for about four months, and I often referred to her as the "best teacher I have ever had." She gave up teaching to start an art project in one of the local elementary schools.

None of the schools in El Valle teach art. Maritza approached the Minister of Education and the officials in this one particular school, and described her program: a elective weekly project to teach the kids about the great masters, some drawing and painting fundamentals, with presentations by visiting artists. The program was approved, parents gave their approval, and we signed up 103 kids! I say "we" because Maritza enlisted her friends as volunteers to help out.

I was the first guest artist, and described the process of making a stained glass item, as well as showing some of my pieces. The yellow VW is always a crowd pleaser. I also had the kids apply copper foil to a glass bobble, and they got to keep the bobble. Christine, who makes paper from local plants, was a big hit, as was Harry who is a designer (mostly furniture). He brought three or four of his chairs and sofas, which had been scaled to child size. Franco described the process of making cement sculptures, and Shirley and Jackie gave painting lessons. In our last session, George Scribner, a Disney animator, enthralled the kids. He first painted Dumbo and then taught the kids how to draw Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and figures with movements. He was terrific and had the kids completely engaged.

Panama was host to an exhibition of Rembrandt etchings. The kids studied Rembrandt for several weeks. The ones who had the best Rembrandt portfolio (essay, drawings, creative coloring) were selected to go to the exhibition. (Keep in mind that many of these kids had never seen the ocean, let alone been to Panama City and a museum.) Although the school had a bus which would transport the kids, there was no budget for the diesel, the driver, the lunches, etc. etc. So, we quickly did some fund raising in El Valle, and had a great response. We left El Valle at 6:30 am on a Saturday morning (ugh), and were first in line for a tour through the museum. The museum tour guides said that these kids were the best ever in the museum. For the most part, they were speechless. After the museum, they went to the mall for lunch and some playing on the bumper cars. The bus got back to El Valle about 5; it was a spectacular day.

One project, prompted by a visiting mural artist from the States, was a mural for the "auditorium" at the school. Kids in the art project designed the mural, which was executed by several high school kids under the direction of Mark Nelson, the visiting mural artist.

The project will continue through the end of October. I am so grateful to be involved with this project. The kids are so good, and just lapping up all this stuff. They get a kick out of me and my laugh, and giggle shyly when they say "Thank you" to me in Engish. And I love it, when I am riding my bike around town, one of them sees me and waves excitedly.

Monday, July 28, 2008

Beisbol, Panama Style

As many of you know, Barbara was called "Barbara Baseball" when we lived in the States. When we lived in Portugal, we did find some amateur baseball but it was too amateur and too far away (the team did ask Tommy to coach them!). Anyway, so one of the joys of moving to Panama was to reconnect with baseball (beisbol to you Spanish speakers).

Early in our life here in Panama, I started on a mission to find out about baseball in Panama, for which there is a website but no future information posted. While doing some research on the web, I found an article written by a Panamanian about a game in Rod Carew stadium. I wrote to him and he replied, suggesting that we catch a game in the "juvenil (youth) league"; he said that they were more interesting than the "old guys" and that their season was starting in January. Sure enough, the season did start in January and the games were played in stadiums all over the country. With all the best intentions, we never got to a game during the regular season, mainly because the games started at 7pm and were at least an hour plus away.

When Cynthia came to visit in February, we made it our goal to get to a game. The schedule in the newspaper showed Saturday's game in Chame (about an hour eastwards), starting at 7 pm. Okay, we could do that. The next day, the schedule showed Saturday's game in Chame at 5 pm. Hm. Saturday rolled around, and the schedule still showed a 5 pm starting time, so off we went, looking for the stadium, which was an adventure because there are no signs on the highway to point you in the direction of the stadium. We found our way there by asking directions at every intersection.

This cute little stadium (held a couple of thousand fans) was tucked away in the middle of a residential area; lights had recently been installed. We arrived about 15 minutes before starting time, paid our $4 to enter, and there were only a few seats left! Cynthia found out that, for an additional $1, we could rent white plastic chairs, which we could put anywhere there was room. So, we plunked ourselves down, slightly to third base side of home base, about 10 feet behind the screen. Great seats, we thought. Then the game started, exactly on time, and everyone stood up, starting yelling and screaming and we could see nothing. Behind us (two feet away), the base drum started banging, joined by various other musical instruments in the stands. Runners were going for, and returning with, beers for everyone around us; people got louder and louder. Actually, the noise was making Tommy physically ill, so he took some time outs down along third base line. Was it a baseball game or just a fun, loud night out?

Who was winning? What was happening? What inning was it? Beats the heck out of us...there was no scoreboard. We found out the next day via the newspaper that Chiriqui won that game; they went on to win the title a couple of games later. So, that was our beisbol experience this year. We had hoped to get to a "big league" game in Panama City at Rod Carew stadium but will save that for next year.

Just a few more beisbol notes:

--early on in the youth baseball tournament, the game was stopped because "one of the umpires turned out to be drunk"

--the national team had hoped to play in the tournament in Taiwan (I think this was in November). Panama was disqualified because its league manager had not paid the required $6000 for insurance.

Beisbol, Panama style, may not be all that we hoped it would be....

Legal! Finally!

It took almost nine months for our Jubliado Visas (geek visas) to be approved. First of all, there was much confusion about our having US passports and Portuguese documents. Our lawyer wasn't following up closely, so our applications sat for several months before he finally woke up. It only took a day to resolve the confusion but then our applications were caught in the flood of other applications, as well as a change in directorship at Immigration.

Finally, on May 6th, we saw on the Immigration website, that our applications had been approved. We notified our lawyer (and no, we are not recommending him to others). We were told that the earliest we could pick up the visas was on 16 May.

My mother arrived late on 14 May, and I drove her up to El Valle on 15 May. Early on 16 May, I drove back to Panama City, collected Tommy and we walked over to the lawyer's office. His minion drove us to the Immigration office, where another minion had "taken a number" for us at 7 am in the morning. Our number was finally called at 11ish, and the minion moved the paperwork from one window to another. Don't ask: haven't a clue why. The Immigration office is in an old building, with seating for about 100 and standing for about 500. Even then, in order to move, you had to shove people out of the way. It was chaotic, hot and seemed completely disorganized. No wonder the government has approved a new building and offices for this department.

We were finally told to get in the line for photographs; we waited in that line for about an hour, all the time watching others being taken out of line and ushered into the photo place. Obviously, they were bribing the officials and I would have been glad to, as well, had I known this was a possibility. So, I did the next best thing: explained that mi esposo had cancer and that he had an appointment at the hospital for treatment. We were photographed and had our approved, stamped and official visas within the half hour.

Wish I had thought of that earlier!

Drivers' Licenses

So, after the nonsense in traffic stop, I became paranoid about getting our Panamanian drivers' licenses. Our first stop was the American Embassy, to have our California licenses validated and notarized.

Then, onto the Foreign Ministry, so that they could do whatever they do. It is hard to figure out, but they issue a deposit slip which one takes to a Banco National and pays $4, and gets some pink stamps. These stamps are applied to some paper issued by the Foreign Ministry.

You take all this stamped and notarized and officialized paper to the driver's license place, where you are photographed, tested (eyes and hearing), and then issued a license on the spot. The driver's license place is incredibly efficient and easy to deal with.

The Embassy and the Foreign Ministry took us one day (because of the wait times at the Foreign Ministry). We did the licenses another day. And we were thrilled...we were finally legal!

June 6th, Anton and Penonome

So June 6th was the appointed court date, which was in Anton. Maritza offered to go with me (thank goodness)! We arrived a little before 11 (the designated time), and a half hour or so later, were sent into the court administrator's office, along with the bicyclist. We each explained what had happened (Maritza translating for me). I also said that I knew the bicyclist could not pay any money, that I would pay for the damage, but that I wanted the record clear that I was not at fault.

The administrator, seeing an easy way out, announced that we could all shake hands and agree to my terms. Maritza was having none of it! She convinced the administrator that the agreement had to be in writing so that my insurance would not be affected. Because putting the agreement in writing would create more work for the administrator, it took Maritza some time and forcefulness to convince him that it was necessary. But he finally agreed, and we were told to return at 1 pm for the document. The bicyclist was told he could go home; Maritza and I gave him money for his bus fare home.

So, we went to eat lunch and shop (what else?). Of course, when we returned to the court at 1, the document wasn't ready. However, at about 3 we left the court, with the all-important document, feeling very good about our mission.

And then disaster struck: Maritza twisted her ankle as we were getting into the car. It was so bad and so painful, that she could not drive. I took the wheel, stopping first to get a bag of ice for her ankle and then onto Penonome to the hospital.

This was a third world hospital, nothing like the beautiful hospitals we had come to know and love in Panama City. It was raining, and there were puddles on the floor where the roof had holes. The floors were not clean, and everything was very, very old and used.

After x-rays and waiting another two hours, the orthopedic doctor arrived and pronounced a torn ligament. There was nothing he could do for it but prescribed a "boot", to be purchased in Panama City. He also prescribed pain killers, which we stopped and got on our way back home.

By this time, it was dark and raining. But the pain killers were working, and Maritza sat in the passenger seat with her hurt ankle elevated on the dashboard console. I was merrily driving along and then we were stopped at roadblock and waved over. License, registration and documents please.

I mistakenly admitted that I had been in the country for a year. Oh, and where was my Panamanian driver's license? Did I not know that I was driving illegally and that he would now confiscate the car and charge me a huge fine? Maritza took over, explaining the ankle problem, starting to cry, and asking whether or not we could contribute to the police fund. $8 later we were on our with, no fine and no more talk about confiscating the car.

What a day! We did laugh most of the way home....am I meant to be driving in Panama, one wonders...

Me, the car and the bicycle

My mom visited for two weeks in mid-May. Since Tommy was in Panama City (and I don't drive the big black van), my mom rented a car so that she wouldn't have to walk and/or bicycle everywhere (as I do). I was the driver of the car, and found that I did enjoy driving again (this was my first Panama driving experience).

However, on the way to show my mom the Piedra Pintada, a local petroglyph, we had an accident: a bicyclist, coming towards us in our lane, smashed into the car. He wasn't hurt but he broke the windshield, smash a headlight, and scratched the car in numerous places.

Ah terrific. Someone called the El Valle police, who arrived in about 20 minutes. They confirmed that the car could not be moved, and that we had to wait for the transit police from Chame (about 50 minutes away). The El Valle police were really great, and took mom back to our house so that she could eat (she is diabetic) and wait this out in comfort.

The bicyclist was a humble man who lived a further hour away, up in the mountains. He had been on his way to pick up his daughter from school, and wasn't paying attention to things. After the accident, he did leave to go pick up his daughter. He returned with her, and she and I colored while waiting for the transit police.

FOUR HOURS later, the transit police arrived. It took them about 12 minutes to make their report, and to issue us a court date.

What a stinking way to spend a Thursday afternoon!

Tommy's Radiation Treatments

In Panama, radiation treatments are only available at one private hospital, Centro Medico Patilla, which is a different hospital than our beloved Punta Pacifica. Anyway, Patilla demanded that we pay for the radiation treatments, and then request reimbursement from our insurance company, BUPA. This despite BUPA's pre-authorization of the treatments, and assurances that they would pay. We refused to accept this, yelling along the way, "Is this any way to treat sick people?" We told everyone, including Tommy's doctors at the Punta Pacifica (the doctors in Panama practice at all the hospitals so they are somewhat influential).

After more than two months of holding firm, Patilla finally agreed to bill BUPA directly, and the radiation treatments started in early May. Because the treatments were given every day, Monday through Friday, Tommy had to live in Panama City during the week. He stayed at the Sevilla Suites, in the El Cangrejo district, and walked back and forth to the hospital. He took the bus into Panama City on Monday mornings and returned Friday, early evening.

The treatments continued for five weeks, and pretty much busted him up: fatigue, a terrible rash on his back, thin, and grouchier than you can imagine. And that's saying something, isn't it?

Anyway, the treatment seems to have worked. The doctors are finding no evidence of cancer! In late August, Tommy will undergo all the tests again to make sure that he has healed properly. Thank you BUPA is all we can say!

Is it really July 28, 2008?

Gosh, but we have been away a long time! Inertia, lots of house guests, Tommy's radiation treatments, lots of excuses....

To finish the license plate story: the week of March 13th, Maritza and I went back to Panama City, arriving at the licensing office at 7:00 am, just as it opened. We were greeted with smiles and nods of acknowledgment. On our way into Panama City, we had stopped in Coronado and bought boxes of chocolates, which we started dispensing to each clerk who moved us successfully along the road to the license plates.

The revised import papers had arrived, as had the revised police inspection certificate, so we were given papers to take up to another office, where a new title was issued. Then back down to the licensing area, where we were given the coveted Panamanian license plates! By 9:00 am, we were done! Almost an anti-climax after the wildness of the previous week.

So, what did we do with the rest of our day? First we went for Chinese breakfast (dim sum). What a treat! And then we started shopping: Do-It Center, Riba Smith, Cochez, etc. etc. I mean, why waste a trip to Panama City?